Durability of the car
The durability of the car in many respects depends on style of driving, therefore we will discuss how we go and as it is not necessary to go if, of course, there is a desire to save up both the car, and money.
Going on the car for work or to a business trip, try to count up, how many time you should use coupling, a transmission and brakes. After all while the car is perfectly in order, seldom to whom comes to mind to pay attention to how those or other controls are used. Certainly, to change, say, till time erased brake колодки it is simple. And here it is necessary to tinker with replacement of brake drums or disks. And absolutely uneasy to cope with the worn out details of coupling or a transmission.
Anything, of course, in the car not eternally. But if you, let us assume, unfairly often use coupling, maneuvering in a dense city stream, and do not remove a foot from a pedal, even standing on a traffic light, the put 80 thousand in km of run a coupling disk to serve, certainly, will not be. Its preschedule replacement of position will not rescue: on turn premature failure of plates of "basket" of coupling and the bearing of deenergizing of coupling which from thoughtless operation of transmission simply "dries up" and breaks "basket"...
The same it is possible to tell and about a transmission. Most "patient" of domestic – "a Zhigulevsk" transmission – is capable «отъездить» both 150, and 200 thousand in km without repair; transmissions of cars Audi are slightly more capable to serve. But the dashing management of a box accompanied by jerks of the lever from one position of another, long before term puts out of action synchronizers. And it though and not the most difficult, but repair. Therefore patient drivers, switching transfers, use a technique «into three accounts», that is as though about itself tell «time, two, three» while translating the lever from one position in another.
However, to the "sportsmen", preferring to take quick "straight away", it is necessary to pay off not only a failing steering and ahead of schedule worn out rubber. At such style of driving huge loading is necessary on a drive detail – hinges of equal angular speeds, bearings, a coupling disk, not to mention the engine. No doubt, the modern cars equipped with powerful motors, can go any time, as sports. But they are not intended for "sports" loadings, if, of course, speech does not go about "the single" car.
What to do, if nevertheless there is a necessity to "tear" the motor, getting out on the become limp road or slipping in sand or on ice? Skilled drivers know how to arrive in similar cases: they create the conditions raising its passableness for the car. It is enough to lower pressure in tyres of driving wheels to one atmosphere considerably to improve coupling of wheels with a dirt road surface. And on the front-wheel car surpassing in passableness the car of classical configuration, difficult sites of dirt roads overcome, moving a backing.
Preparation of the car for winter
All councils resulted more low and recommendations are unessential for carrying out independently. If there is no desire to potter – is service stations and masters-professionals. But you should represent, what exactly is necessary for making with the car, accurately to explain it to the master, and sometimes and to track that all has been made properly.
On snow and ice in barefoot persons do not go – the car for the winter too should be changed. About winter rubber it is written much, therefore we will remind shortly only high lights.
Tyres are intended for winter operation with marks: «M+S» («Mud + Snow» means грязь+снег), «W» («Winter», or winter). These inscriptions are sometimes accompanied by pictogrammes in the form of a snowflake or тучки.
It is better to choose tyres a little already, than what you use in the summer, – it is natural, within admissible for your car of a range of the sizes. The protector should press through snezhno-mud porridge to a firm covering, narrow tyres cope with such problem better.
In the winter it is undesirable to apply all-weather tyres – that are marked by indexes «AS» («All Seasons» – all seasons) or «AW» («Any Weather» – any weather).
"Winter" possibilities at them weak; all-weather in the true sense of the word it is possible to consider them only in the event that it is a question about малоснежной to Europe, instead of of Russia.
Shipovannye tyres on ice and snow hold better, than нешипованные. But on pure asphalt at braking on thorns the probability of blocking of wheels, drift and a brake way increases: steel thorns not bad slide on asphalt. Danger consists also that drivers blindly trust in thorns and, braking on asphalt, expect from them the same death grip, as well as on ice. By the way, нешипованные winter tyres of new generations on a slippery surface behave not worse, than шипованные.
Some drivers put шипованные tyres only on driving wheels in the winter. And on the conducted leave... The summer. Do not do so, it is dangerous. On slippery road the probability of a pulling down нешипованной steams of wheels is very great even in rather harmless situations – coupling and resistance factors to lateral withdrawal too strongly differ.
The main problem in the winter – start-up of the cold engine. Is more often it arises with reference to carburettor motors, but in a strong frost with it can face and the owner of the car the engine equipped with system of injection. The reasons are known – the thickened oil, falling of capacity of the accumulator and bad evaporation of gasoline. Oils and accumulators we will consider separately, for now some words about experience of the countries with a frigid climate where prestarting electroheaters, such "boilers" in system of cooling of the engine are widely applied. Has approached on the house or office, has thrust a plug in the socket, has included the timer... By the necessary time the engine will be heated-up, and some designs of heaters provide also salon warming up.
Electric devices of heating are presented some years and in the Russian market. The Finnish heaters which can be completed with timers use the greatest popularity.
The basic lack of electroheating consists that at the house or office it is necessary to have a special guard with the socket. The exit – an independent heater on liquid fuel which too is built in system of cooling of the engine and works by a principle of a water-heating copper. As fuel for it gasoline or diesel fuel depending on on what the engine of your car works serves.
The advantage of heating systems consists also that at their application the engine resource increases. Each start-up of the cold motor at temperature–20 °С is equivalent to run of 800 km. By the way, according to modern views the motor will reach working temperature faster, and its deterioration will be less if after start-up not to be at a stop, and to begin movement as soon as possible, avoiding, of course, excessive loading on the engine.
Oil replacement usually прозводят in a binding to car run, instead of to a season. The overwhelming majority of modern engine oils to some extent the all-weather. It is considered, it is necessary what to fill in that is offered the manufacturer in the car maintenance instruction. But winters happen different – both warm slushy, and frosty. And it is absolutely not clear, whether the manufacturer assumed that its car will be maintained in the conditions of the Russian winter and that oil is required to it "more coldly".
If you have decided to recede from instruction requirements, at an oil choice it is possible to use simple reception of definition of its temperature suitability – for secure. We name this reception «a rule 35».
The designation of a class of its viscosity should enter into engine oil marks on scale SAE. For example: 15W-40. It means that the given oil on viscosity at "minus" temperature meets the requirements shown to winter oils of a class 15W, and at «плюсовой» – to summer oils of a class 40.
Remember number "35". If from it to subtract "a winter" index of a class of viscosity (in our example it is «15») the size named in limiting temperature прокачиваемости will turn out, i.e. temperature at which oil still keeps fluidity: 35–15=20. Means, oil 15W-40 can use at temperature to–20 °С.
Accordingly, the the less "winter" index of a class of viscosity, the oil is colder": 10W – to–25 °С; 5W – to–30 °С.
It also is «a rule 35» – simple and useful.
The storage battery
Has struck a frost, and the accumulator still yesterday vigorously twisting a starter, flatly refuses to do it. Anything surprising: when you charged its last time?
If the accumulator "is rather young" (till 3–4 years) on the threshold of winter it needs to be washed up outside to clear plugs and completely to charge (if the car was constantly maintained in a city, the battery charge, for certain, is far from nominal). If the accumulator old and to nominal capacity is not charged, change without meditations, differently in the winter it will bring you – capacity and so strongly falls with temperature fall, and here also the raised power consumption: a heater, heating of seats, light, "yard keepers", a heater of back glass...
By estimations of experts, average duration of "a high-grade life» storage battery makes about 12 months, gradual "withering" further begins. And the peak of sales стартерных batteries, according to sellers, is necessary just for the autumn.
Times when the automobile owner was knocked down in search of the new accumulator, have passed for a long time: from a variety of trade marks and models on regiments of shops рябит in eyes. What to choose – the private affair of everyone. We will notice only that in the market now it is possible to allocate two price groups: batteries in cost over $60 (usually to $100), for example Bosch, Steco, American, Fiamm, and accumulators under the price below $60 (Mutlu, Inci, Centra, SAEM etc.).
Higher prices of batteries of the first group are defined by more perfect technology of their manufacture. These accumulators, as a rule, concern a category of the unattended. Special types of electrolits and tight execution of such batteries increase their resource and provide high стартерные the currents guaranteeing проворачивание of a cranked shaft of the engine even at strong frosts. Leading manufacturers now without fail use technology of packing of plates therefore it is possible to avoid short circuit of the battery in case of their destruction.
Cheaper accumulators demand periodic service – checks of density of electrolit and measurement of its level.
Often at purchase of the new battery try to choose capacity more if only the battery has got on the place taken away for it. But capacity not the main thing. Where it is more important стартерный a current which is provided with the battery. After all even at the high-capacity accumulator this indicator (because of the big own resistance) can appear more low, than at the accumulator of smaller capacity. Besides, higher current of the gymnastics is required to the high-capacity battery , which generator of your car will not provide, and the battery while in service will be discharged more and more that is pitiable will affect term of its service.
At purchase of the battery different from regular, pay attention to an arrangement of its plugs: accumulators come across to "return polarity» which plugs of a wire of your car can and not reach.
Before approach of winter do not forget about high-voltage wires. After driving couple of years on our "salty" roads it is desirable to replace them, is better on wires with a silicone cover which are less sensitive to temperature drops. Besides, on them hoarfrost which often happens the reason of absence of a spark is not formed. Corrosion or a bad inhaling of plugs of the storage battery can be the banal reason of malfunctions in ignition system.
Separately – about candles. Usually they are changed by each 15-20 thousand in km, i.e. once in one and a half year (some supermodern candles maintain 100 thousand in km of run and more). To save on candles (to calcinate, clean and regulate backlashes) it is not necessary. Replace candles at least once a year it it is inexpensive. New candles establish on the threshold of winter.
The power supply system
Quite often the power supply system is at the bottom of unsatisfactory work of the engine during winter time. And all because of the water condensate which has accumulated in a fuel tank. If in a tank there is a drain stopper, water can be merged simply; if is not present to "neutralise", having applied so-called вытеснители a moisture. Almost all leading manufacturers of auto chemical goods (STP, Loctite, Wynns, Aspokem) offer similar preparations: filled in in a fuel tank, they gradually clear the power supply system.
To the superfluous will not put also the new filter of thin clearing of fuel, to be convinced of cleanliness of atomizers.
Winter not the best season for the car, especially at movement on the streets plentifully strewed by salt. During this period the body as much as possible is exposed to corrosion, therefore its anticorrosive processing is rather desirable. However, according to employees of some authorised servicing deports, for a number of new foreign cars, especially with the zinced body, it is quite enough factory processing.
Anticorrosive processing demands technology strict observance, and though almost all manufacturers of protective materials let out them in packing for household application, all the same it is more preferable to spend processing in the specialised service centre. Costs in advance
To find out, on what technology it is carried out. In any case before sheeting drawing on the bottom and arches the car should be cleared of a dirt, is washed up and dried carefully up.
Winter – hard test and for a paint and varnish covering of a body. Sharp temperature drops, snow mixed up with salt, an ice crust – all it leads to occurrence of microcracks on a paint. The body surface can be protected special structures, suitable for use at low temperature, for example Plus Teflon or Color Magic. Processing by these preparations spend to once a month after an obligatory sink of the car and its drying.
Question on where to hold the car in the winter, actually usually it is not necessary: at whom garage are, at whom is not present hold it in garage, – in the street. Strangely enough, from the point of view
(From corrosion, instead of from theft) between trips and for the night it is better to leave safeties of a body the car in the street – at a cold body corrosion process goes more slowly. In cold garage of heat allocated with the car suffices on that it a few to warm, and the melted snow with salt some time actively does the dirty deed. Well and in warm garage even if you have carefully washed the car from salt from below, it will stand all night long the wet...
Visibility – not only comfort, but also safety. Therefore hardly it is necessary to remind that screen wipers, having blown and heating of glasses should be serviceable. The brushes leaving on glass matte strips, safely throw out. And buying new, try to choose firm – Bosch, ITE, Champion, etc. Inhabitants of northern regions can try warmed brushes which are connected to an onboard network; they have appeared on sale not so long ago.
Now it is direct about glasses. Their survey is better for entrusting the expert, but also the personal control will not prevent. Even small скол on a windscreen in the first frost after an autumn rain will turn to a high-grade crack. Existing technologies of repair allow to eliminate similar defect without glass removal. It is easier and cheaper, than replacement has flown down.
One more "winter" problem – запотевание glasses. At serviceable system of ventilation arises seldom, but... Application of liquids-antizapotevatelej, for example Anti-Fog or Never Fog which it is enough to put on glass of times in a week Helps.
All account materials, including antifreeze and hydraulic liquids in drives of brakes and couplings, have the service life. If arise though the slightest doubts, it is not necessary to select a portion of the antifreeze which has grown brown or become green from an old age from a radiator and to put it on test in a deep-freezer. Replace antifreeze. Also do not save, buying doubtful preparations without labels and certificates, – will more expensively manage.
Not less carefully it is necessary to approach and to a choice of nonfreezing liquids for washers of glasses. It in a countryside at–20 °С under wheels dry and pure snow. And in Moscow even in a strong frost – a dirty fat swill which brushes willingly smear on glass, transforming into an opaque whitish film. Therefore a liquid stock in a tank of a washer of a windscreen – an indispensable condition of safe driving. But buying a liquid, which temperature of freezing –20 °С, be not under a delusion and do not dilute it, even if in the street–10 °С. Practice shows that on the move liquids with freezing temperature–40 °С stiffen on a windscreen even in десятиградусный a frost if glass not to warm (to a question on serviceability of system of ventilation and heating).
Nonfreezing liquids for a windscreen washer, as a rule, contain additives which effectively delete a dirt and clear glass. Some of them, the truth, unduly foam, but also they it is much better, than cheap vodka with which some prefer to fill in in a tank.
Operation of tyres
Tyres on any car wear out unequally and non-uniformly. It is caused by its design (for example, conducting and operated are loaded more), a technical condition of a suspension bracket (сайлентблоков, springs, shock-absorbers) and other reasons.
That tyres (including «запаску») while in service wore out simultaneously and in regular intervals, manufacturers recommend to interchange the position of wheels at everyone THAT, that is through 10-15 thousand in km of run. However each tyre, getting on a new place, at first it is earned extra, and it not always passes without consequences. We will tell, at it external paths have better remained. Having risen to the place of that where the same paths are more worn out, it will quickly wipe the as they at first will be loaded more strongly the worn out internal. Similar extra earnings of tyres "eats" that the resource most part (ходимости), than the technical condition of the car, first of all is worse than a suspension bracket. Besides, after repair of a running gear or adjustment of disorder-convergence of wheels character of deterioration of the tyre remaining on an old place will show, whether something has changed here.
Considering all it, skilled motorists interchange the position of tyres through 25-30 thousand in km of run, i.e. one-two time before failure. In this case to replace (and to buy) it is possible not at once all complete set of tyres that many arranges.
Recommended pressure in tyres
Recommended pressure in tyres is specified on a label located on an inside of the hatch of a bulk mouth of a fuel tank. Pressure in tyres 155/80 R13, 175/70 R13 and 185/60 R14 should make 2,1 kg/with.
It is not got (councils)
Your hardware should be faultless – after all time which you have, these are the same money which, we hope, at you too is. Do not lose neither that, nor another. If goodness knows where gone tie or burnt by an iron брючина can become the reason of failure of a business meeting, that then to speak about the car which does not wish to be got for an hour before the appointed negotiations.
Early in the morning, just shaved and full of great plans, you jump in the car, «a key on start» and... What for lines?! Once more. Still... Nervous manipulations with a key in the lock of ignition and pedals of success do not bring. Day is spoilt from the very beginning. Plans and mood – "are up the spout".
Calm down. It is not necessary to rush in an English suit under a cowl and, smearing a tie a dirt, to try to make the diagnosis. For five minutes, most likely, do not cure. Take other car, and treatment of the fallen ill friend leave till the evening. And is better charge to its "doctors" with good reputation, especially if you not the expert. So will be cheaper. Well and if your friend is well familiar to you also you consider itself as the healer – well, try if not laziness to be spoilt or there is no other way out.
It is necessary to start diagnosis definition easy: study mentally symptoms. The first – whether "twists" a starter? If yes, it is how much vigorous? You already know the answer – remember that occurred at the first attempts to get the car. If do not remember, try once again.
If the starter does not twist at all and at all does not click the traction relay at ignition inclusion, it or is faulty (it is possible to close a cowl and to follow to the council resulted above:« Take other car … »), or the electric feed circuit of a starter (the accumulator was disconnected or villages) is faulty. Only on rare models the starter feed circuit can be protected a safety lock. It is simple for finding, especially if in advance the nobility where it is. If the accumulator except a starter also all electric equipment, as a rule, does not work is guilty. The elementary and mild case – has flied, one of plugs has become soiled or oxidised, but the accumulator is perfectly in order. Tighten fastenings of plugs on it and on a starter (if is). If it will be found out that the battery has completely sat down (have forgotten to switch off for the night dimensional fires), it is possible to leave nevertheless, but with assistance. Here, as they say, variants are possible. It is possible to try to be got from a push, a hill or a tow. However be not under a delusion: the car with an automatic transmission or electronic injection of fuel (if there an electric gasoline pump) will not manage to be got these ways. It is necessary to "get a light" from the neighbour. However, at some cars it can lead to "computer" damages – the central block of an electronic control system of the engine (read the instruction to the car). If the starter twists, but is languid (business occurs in the summer, the winter – a subject of separate conversation), most likely, the storage battery is almost absolutely discharged. It will be visible on weak light of headlights or work of a sound signal. The above-stated variants of assistance in this case come into effect.
If the starter twists vigorously, and the engine does not react to attempts it to get, safely exclude from the further reflexions all connected with the accumulator. Check system of ignition or fuel giving, will not be mistaken. At definition of the diagnosis and treatment of "illness" of each of systems the system approach is necessary. Is better to begin with ignition – in this system of a malfunction meet more often, especially in crude weather.
So, it is necessary «to search for a spark». Your car is equipped by electronic contactless system of ignition which can be integrated into an electronic control system of the engine. In any case the ignition system consists of three parts. A part the first – low-voltage (the special gauge plus a box with the electronic stuffing, forming a spark). A part the second – the raising transformer called in the world by the coil of ignition. A part the third – high-voltage (the mechanical or electronic distributor of ignition and high-voltage wires of system of ignition on which the power-current is brought to candles). And, naturally, candles. Check of all this economy should be spent stage by stage and is better to begin «with the end».
Stage the first. A high-voltage part of system. Check up, whether there is a spark on the central wire is what connects the coil of ignition to the distributor. The wire tip needs to be taken out from a cover of the distributor and to approach to any detail having good contact to "weight" (body) of the car (it is painted or not, has no value), and to fix so that between a tip and the chosen detail there was a backlash of 5-7 mm. Крепить a wire it is necessary especially reliably: if will fall to "weight", electronics "will instantly die". For the same reason it is impossible to "strike" a wire on the case. A hand to hold it too it is not advised, at all by the, – will fine strike a current.
Stage of the second. Turn the engine a starter. Thus look that occurs on a wire tip. Two variants are possible. More favorable – the spark is. Powerful, accompanied by loud click. It considerably narrows a field of the further searches.
First of all it is necessary to uncover the distributor. Under it it can appear сыро and it is dirty. On such "conductor" the spark willingly slips anywhere, only not there where it is necessary.
To wipe, clean and dry up. At the same time harmlessly to clean and distributor contacts, for example, a small skin. Examine so-called «бегунок». If on it or on a distributor cover will find out a dark trace of electric breakdown, the detail should be changed. In the most biassed image check up the wires going from the distributor to candles. Wires and their tips should be dry and pure. If with them, in your opinion, everything is all right, it is possible to put a cover into place, to restore connections and to try to get the engine. If malfunction was concealed under a cover, the engine will be got or at worst at least will start to sneeze. A symptom too favorable – you on a right way. However, it is necessary to turn out, clean and dry candles: in attempts to get the engine you have filled in with their gasoline. If the engine does not sneeze at all, candles all the same should be turned out, cleaned and checked. Easier if there is a spare complete set.
If you have already reached a stage of a reversing of candles, it is possible to check up effectively enough (and it is effective) ignition system as a whole. Having connected to the turned out candles high-voltage wires of system of ignition, collect candles in a bunch as carrots, and wind it by a carving part of candles with the soft bared wire. Be convinced that the wire contacts to each candle, but does not concern their central electrodes. The free end of a wire connect to "weight". Having arranged a bunch of candles in convenient for supervision from salon a place, twist the engine a starter. Between electrodes of candles by turns (according to
Operating procedure of cylinders) should slip cheerful sparks. If it so all system of ignition is serviceable. The engine sound thus will be very unusual, but be not frightened, after all it turns with the turned out candles. Long do not twist. Worse if at the second stage of check other variant takes place: sparks between the central wire and "weight" are not present. Means, matter is not in high-voltage chains. The further searches will be more difficult, estimate a stock of time and desire. If both that and another available, start the third stage.
Stage the third. Check up, whether pressure on the ignition coil moves. It is easy for making a tester and if it is not present, it is possible to use подкапотную a lamp. The pair of wires However, is required to connect it to the coil. To connect a bulb it is necessary between "weight" and an input of a primary winding.
At the third stage as usually, two variants also are possible: pressure on the coil either moves, or is not present. If moves, the coil – breakdown or short circuit is guilty that, however, happens extremely seldom. The coil should be changed. There is a bad contact in connection of wires with the coil is more often. Or the same wet dirt on which the spark flows away it is not known where. Sometimes the coil is polished to shine, but under it invisible, very narrow strip of a dirt – a quite good conductor remains.
If at the third stage you were convinced that pressure on the coil does not move – electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in a low-voltage part of system of ignition is guilty. With electronics (the switchboard and the gauge in the distributor case is more rare) you will not consult – their diagnostics needs the special equipment. It is possible unless to pull a gauge socket on the distributor case – suddenly will help. On socket contacts only 12 In, therefore it is possible to pull pressure fearlessly. If pressure has appeared (at дерганье contacts a bulb blinks), restore all unscrewed and disassembled, start the car and, maybe, still will make progress in the affairs. If the engine is not started, but already at least sneezes – turn out candles and... (See above).
It can turn out and so that all system of ignition have checked up, it is perfectly in order, and the engine though you burst, all the same is not got. Means, problems from other of mentioned before systems – the power supply system, that is fuel givings in the engine.
If at you the car with injection (инжекторная system of giving of fuel), do not touch it (to system). You can come to conclusion only that it is faulty: the spark is, fuel approaches – means, it, darling. Treatment only in a hospital. In house conditions and at handicraftsmen to repair it it is useless and even it is harmful.
Rare, but we have left the most unpleasant diagnosis at last. If the starter works normally, and you have already spent a heap of time and were convinced that ignition and a food in a full order, but the car nevertheless is not got – it is necessary to examine a belt of a drive of a camshaft. However, solve: this check can be spent and in the beginning, especially if the engine has passed more than 60 thousand in km. Complexity that it is necessary to remove or at least partially to unbend the top part of a plastic belt plastic or metal casing. Probably, at a belt teeths (at belts, as well as at people, a teeth is lost from an old age) are cut off. In this case the camshaft does not rotate also the engine will not work. It is clear that it is necessary to replace a toothless belt. Procedure of replacement of a belt is simple, but there is enough хлопотна. It is spent in a hospital. It is good, if all is limited to replacement of one belt, instead of погнутых valves or all head of the block of cylinders – such too happens.
Power supply system contamination (about "the atherosclerosis" reasons )
Let's try to explain, why the blood system of the car sometimes is surprised "atherosclerosis". Gasoline – car blood. And blood should be pure and run on pure vessels. And that in vessels over an admissible measure "cholesterol" collects ourselves, as a rule, are guilty. Whether often you use the canister for доливки gasoline in a tank? If yes, chances to litter a gasoline pipe line and filters raise, especially if your funnel without сеточки. In the canister the dust, a rust, sand, and if the canister inside крашенная, also paint particles usually accumulates. It is clear that the less than intermediate container it is used on a way of gasoline from a column in a tank, the better. As it is strange, even on the most mean gaz station of a dirt in tanks in the specific relation it is less, than in "the house" canister. The scourge of our gaz stations is not so much dirt, how many water. But here we are powerless. However, with own hand not to add water in the domestic diluted gasoline, try to hold always a tank the full. In an incomplete tank the condensate, especially in inter-season period when there are sharp temperature drops accumulates.
It is necessary to tell to steam of words and about the accumulator. As on the majority of modern cars it unattended, is not present sense to result here maintenance instructions. We will give some additional councils how longer to keep the accumulator the viable. Do not take a great interest напичкиванием your car in additional consumers of energy. That fact that in power balance of the car is provided the certain stock, allowing to be connected to two-three "parasites", does not mean that it is possible to hang six horns and ten antifog headlights on the car – have a sense of proportion. Besides, if you connect unforeseen consumers independently, the probability of damage of isolation is great. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified intervention in car electroconducting has an effect sooner or later troubles.
If your accumulator "is near death", try not to suppress the engine during uncountable stops in a city. Anything so does not exhaust the battery, as frequent using a starter.
And, at last (it concerns not only the accumulator, but also all electric equipment of the car), remember: all plugs, contacts, tips of wires should be dry and pure, well adjoining to "destinations". Dirty, greasy isolation makes the way sooner or later, and подгорание and oxidation of any contact surface can serve unique (and sufficient) as a cause of a failure of system of ignition or a fire.
On it it is possible to stop. Meticulous motorists, undoubtedly, have paid attention to some superficiality of our councils. We admit, we intentionally do not wish to go deep into a jungle not to provoke you to self-treatment – it to good does not result. The understanding of the nature of pains in the bottom of a stomach on the right does not mean that you should delete at yourselves an appendix. But to describe to the doctor symptoms of an appendicitis you should precisely. Very much helps treatment.